A sexy historical kitchen drama
Dear Watchers,The French drama "Carême," beginning Wednesday, on Apple TV+ (in French, with subtitles, or dubbed), is the story of the chef Antonin Carême, who rose to prominence during the reign of Napoleon and whose ideas still shape the modern food world. Can he save France through the sheer thinness of his pastry layers … and also through his blazing horniness and sexual charisma? Oui! Sorry — oui, chef! (According to the show, he's the guy who invented saying that.) Benjamin Voisin stars as Carême: pouty, endlessly flirtatious, exacting, gifted. Were motorcycles a thing in 1803, he would have a motorcycle. His ambition — and his medical knowledge of herbs and elixirs — catches the eye of the powerful politician Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord, and although Carême initially resists, he agrees to work for Talleyrand and finds himself cooking for Napoleon's inner circle. Bonaparte, as many of the characters call Napoleon, goes largely unseen on the show; "Carême" focuses on all the behind-the-scenes players, all the power, influence and intrigue that exist around and beyond a throne. "Cooking is very similar to seducing," Talleyrand (Jérémie Renier) tells Carême. Yeah, dude, he knows. Everybody's in bed with everybody here: romantically, sexually, but especially politically. When we're not gazing in wonder at perhaps the world's greatest array of copper pots, we're listening in on various zigs and zags of espionage and diplomacy. Carême uses his dishes to woo foreign officials and communicate with political prisoners, to curry favor with the Pope, to coerce a king in exile. The show is based on the book "Cooking for Kings: The Life of Antonin Carême, the First Celebrity Chef," by Ian Kelly. Like many period dramas, "Carême" has a loose relationship to historical facts, and its dialogue is decidedly modern. Freed from the shackles of accuracy, the show is instead able to indulge in being spry and fun, without the lugubriousness of bleak historical dramas or the self-seriousness of kitchen dramas. It has the fizz of "Downton Abbey," in its pomp and in the frequency with which bad news is delivered by note. It also does often resemble "The Bear," as Carême and Carmy both use sketching and meticulous cooking as ways to process (or not) their daddy issues. Both chefs rely on the steady genius of a Black female second-in-command, here Agatha (Alice Da Luz), a brilliant and disciplined chef and leader. The stakes on "Carême" are much higher — i.e., the genuine fate of Europe — but the show is much lighter. So light, in fact, that it often drifts into the cartoonish appeal of a musical, especially in its eyebrow-waggling, Javert-tinged villain (Micha Lescot). Carême's grand, theatrical creations would be right at home in "Be Our Guest," and proclamations on how one seizes power and lamentations on the sorrows of orphanhood have certainly lent themselves to song before. Two episodes of "Carême" arrive on Wednesday, and the subsequent six premiere weekly. Sadly, only one episode can be titled "A Recipe for a Disaster." Also this week
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